Before the start
When I signed up for the Lakes 'n' Knödel at the beginning of the year, I had only been cycling regularly for a year - and was immediately fascinated. I quickly came into contact with ultra races via Insta through the well-known ultra cyclists Jana Kesenheimer and Marei Moldenhauer. The distances, the lack of sleep, the endless hours in the saddle - it all seemed unimaginable to me at first. But the curiosity to push my own limits wouldn't let me go. My goal was clear: "just" finish. Never before had I ridden so far or so high on my gravel bike in such a short time.
At first, I hardly told anyone about my plans, wavering between pride and self-doubt. The fact that even experienced riders like Jana were open about their insecurities made it easier for me. I also started in a pair with Flo. We were able to help each other if necessary. We hardly knew each other, but that took the pressure off, so we could only win.
Arrival in Fuschl am See
The set-up is in place, the train is on time and the first glimpse of Lake Fuschl promises what the coming days have in store for us all. A day to arrive proves to be a good idea - anticipation and excitement balance each other out. Even the last nervous conversations about the right translation for the social ride don't unsettle me. At the riders' briefing on Saturday evening, I noticed that there was less FLINTA* than I had hoped. Something that becomes clear to me as the ride progresses: Many of the Flinta*, like me, compete in pairs or ride - to be on the safe side? - with other people. Even though the scene has become more diverse in recent years, the proportion of FLINTA* is rarely 50%. The reasons are many and varied and worth a separate text - with this report, I would at best like to contribute to more people daring to take part in bikepacking events and help shape the scene.
Nevertheless, I notice that everyone here is open and welcoming, there is a conversation here and there with the unfamiliar people sitting next to us, everyone is excited to see what the coming days have in store for us. There is a positive tension and anticipation in the air!
Off we go
Monday, 8 a.m.: Start. The last clouds of cold, damp fog are still hanging in the air, but the sun is in the forecast. The first ascent is immediately followed by the first hike-a-bike section. The steep trail is not rideable for me with my setup and skills. I push so as not to take any risks. After the field of riders has dispersed a little, Flo and I ride into the increasingly beautiful day - until my companion starts to struggle with stomach problems. Now we have to be considerate and slow down a bit. We are both secretly thinking about the effort ahead. But for now, we want to remain optimistic and enjoy the day's stage with a total of eight lakes, a beautiful sunset and the final sprint to the supermarket. Again and again along the route, we catch up with other participants - or are caught up with. We exchange happy words with each other, everyone is relieved to finally be out and about on our bikes.
Onwards alone
After the first night, the sun rises brightly and the moon hasn't even set yet. Now it becomes clear what was already apparent yesterday: Flo can't continue. I'm a little sad, especially for Flo, that our adventure together is coming to an end. But as I feel so comfortable in the surroundings and on the bike and know that many people from Lakes 'n' Knödel are still riding around me, I feel totally safe on my own.
This day is the best of the entire event for me. In "work mode", I roll through familiar areas, over the Kaiser Mountains to the Valepp, sing loudly to music and reach the first checkpoint in the afternoon - including dumplings for refueling. South of Schliersee, I meet Katja, not yet realizing that we will be spending a lot of time together in the coming days. We book accommodation for the night in the same guesthouse and set off together at dawn the next day towards the Karwendel mountains. We cycle at the same pace for the first few meters of the day up to Lake Achensee. Rain sets in there. The mood, like the weather, was gloomy. But food and the flat kilometers to Pertisau give us new strength. This is followed by a long and strenuous hike-a-bike passage, the start of the Karwendel up to the Plumsjochhütte. We push our bikes along a hiking trail with a gradient of up to 25 degrees, but the atmosphere with the overcast mountains is very mystical. At the Plumsjochhütte, we have the opportunity to dry our wet clothes in front of the blazing fireplace, while outside it is a cold and wet 8 degrees Celsius waiting for us to continue our journey. In the end, the day fills me with pride: the ascent to the Karwendelhaus was my longest and most technically challenging on a bike to date, and I even managed it without pushing. After a short break with yeast dumplings and tea, a long descent follows and the first rays of sunshine come out. Then the day ends in Scharnitz. There I first repair my gears, my derailleur no longer moves at all, but luckily I can fix it. However, the first tears are shed as my right knee lets me down while squatting during the repair.
Painful from now on
The fourth day takes us through a beautiful valley to Ehrwald. I can hardly enjoy the view of the Zugspitze. Since the morning, both Achilles tendons have been quite sore from the unaccustomed strain of yesterday's pushing passage. Exercise helps a little, but after a short break everything feels totally stiff again. But the Plansee makes up for it with its breathtaking scenery.
Then comes the ascent to the Breitenberg: steep hairpin bends, scree, visibility just before the cloud-covered summit is only a few meters. We cover the last short stretch by pushing again. It feels like it takes forever to get to the Grüntensee. A portion of chips saves our spirits.
The finale is a long time coming
Friday is supposed to be the last day. But ten kilometers before Checkpoint 3, I get my first flat tire. Checkpoint 3 is a bike store, and I take the opportunity to have a new coat fitted and fill up with sealant while I fortify myself with dumplings and coffee at 8am. Shortly afterwards: Rain without end, we are soaked to the bone. Shivering, we consult with each other in the supermarket: only 75 kilometers to the finish, but also over 2000 meters of altitude, especially the descents worry us. We can't think about continuing, we're too cold. Our goal today was to finish - and now we are prioritizing our health. The search for accommodation proves difficult, in the end we share a single room and after a hot shower we lie under the covers with down jackets to somehow get warm. What particularly annoys me is that once we have moved into our accommodation, it is cloudy but dry for the rest of the day. If we had looked at the rain report and taken shelter for an hour, we could have made it to the finish that day. It was all a learning experience, albeit a very frustrating one. I was able to see on Instagram how other participants dealt with the cold, wet weather: going to a wellness hotel for two hours, taking a sauna and sleeping in a waterbed while their clothes dried in the dryer. Great!
Well rested and with strong legs, we tackle the last few kilometers on Saturday. The day is characterized by a mixture of anticipation of the finish and the now severe pain in our Achilles tendons. Two cattle drives with their magnificently decorated cows and deafening bells are impressive distractions. But the very last few kilometers are brutal - instead of the expected rideable descent, I get a bumpy, muddy cow pasture, simply no longer rideable for my Achilles tendons at this point. My tears are flowing and I can only see the remaining kilometers in a blur. And then the finish line is finally in sight. I can smile after all, because Katja and I are welcomed with cheers and immediately looked after.
Everyone talks about their previous days, and it's really nice to see people again who I've met again and again along the way over the last few days and with whom I've shared kilometers and accommodation. Celebrating my experiences with the others while enjoying the sun, food and drinks rounds off the day really nicely.
What remains
Over 700 kilometers, almost 14,000 meters of altitude, three dumplings and countless lakes later, I am proud of my performance, my body and the fact that I pushed a few boundaries. Of course, not everything went according to plan, but other things went all the better: I met great people and experienced that team spirit and fun are paramount. Technically, there were hardly any problems, I didn't have any sitting problems, I didn't suffer any knee pain - and above all, I know that this was just the beginning! There's more to come!
